Friday, April 9, 2010

Day 11-13: The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly

The Good:

The remains of Herculaneum in Ercolano, a small preserved Roman village destroyed by the eruption of Mt. Vesuvius in 79 A.D.






Roman Bath...We couldn't believe how preserved it was!


Pompeii:

Seeing Vesuvio looming behind Pompeii:


Crossing the "crosswalks:"


The many remains of taverns. Fabio will serve you a drink now:


The amphitheater:


Our hotel in Castellemare Di Stabia:


Greek temple ruins at Paestum:







The view from our hotel room on the Amalfi Coast:


Gelato in Positano:


Boat ride from Positano to Amalfi:


Fabio was being very romantic in Amalfi:




Lemons bigger than our fists:


Somehow, the streets of Amalfi made me look thinner than I really am:


Eating pizza on a quiet street away from the tourists. Quite possibly the best pizza I've ever had. That is saying a lot:


The Bad and the Ugly:

Where do I begin? Now that you've seen all the beautiful and amazing things we were able to experience, let me tell you-I will probably NEVER experience them again. Why? Oh, my friends. You have NO idea.

Unless you have been to the Naples area of Italy, you cannot fully appreciate what I'm about to relate to you. To make it concise, I will bullet point the stress that quite possibly shortened my life by a few months over the past few days:

- In theory there may be traffic laws. NO ONE abides by them. Complete MAYHEM on the streets...mayhem that moves about 60 mph through city streets, talking on a cell phone, smoking a cigarette and wearing no seatbelt.

- Pedestrians lurking out in the street (many with baby carriages in front of them) without even looking. Because, you know, if you hit them, it's your fault.

- Drivers passing whenever and wherever they feel like it, even if it is only a one lane road.

- Has the trash been collected in the last month? Sure didn't look like it.

- Is there a parking lot at Herculaneum? We'll never know. The whole time we were there, we were worried about Fabio's parents' car we had to park in the most god forsaken neighborhood I've ever been to in the western world. Every male on the street (I think that's where all the males in the neighborhood were since I'm pretty sure none of them have jobs) was eyeing our car and us (obviously NOT Neopolitans) as we huffed the 1/2 kilometer to the archeological site.

- Pretty sure the roads haven't been repaved since asphalt was invented.

- After risking our lives on the road trying to find a parking spot around the ATM, Fabio almost gets a fine for having half of the trunk of the car in a pedestrian crossing. REALLY?! You're blowing your stupid whistle at US? Have you seen the hundreds of jay-walkers, speeders, people without seatbelts and their babies on their laps in the front seat, and scooter riders without helmets talking on their cell phones, smoking a cigarette and turning their head to talk to their girlfriend all while passing 5 cars at 60 mph through the city streets?

-The area around our beautiful hotel in Castellammare:

***I really don't understand why a nice hotel would be in this neighborhood.

- The 1 1/2 lane road that hangs precariously to the side of a cliff that snakes its way from Salerno to Positano, with 180 degree hairpin turns, all the while the natives are zooming past you, or honking their horn and flashing their lights behind you, passing you no matter that there is a blind curve 10 feet ahead. And don't forget the cars coming at you at 60 mph with a 1/2 inch between your car and theirs. They don't even blink. an. eye. while doing this!


***You may be thinking, how can she be complaining about the road when this was the view? Little do you know that right around this corner were 3 scooters, a bus and a car all moving at about 60 mph, headed right towards us. We had to stop, back up, and pray to the high heavens that no one was zooming towards the curve behind us, surely to rear-end and destroy our car and kill us in the meanwhile.

- 30 kilometers (18.6 miles) = 1 hour (Salerno to Positano)

- Our hotel driveway = I don't know, 40 degree incline with the last parking spot being a tiny little perpendicular spot. Not to mention the entrance to said driveway was RIGHT after a blind corner. How the %*(&#*&$ are we going to get back on the road tomorrow when we leave?!

- Crowded bus, almost didn't make it off at our stop in Positano.

- Climbing down hundreds of stairs in Positano. I could barely stand up by the time we got to the bottom. Fabio was trying to look happy:


- Trying to enjoy our time on the coast, all the while trying to shove the thought of driving all the way back on the highway of death the next day out of my head.

Trust me. I could go on. But, I'm sure you've read enough. I'll end with some recommendations if you ever decide to visit this part of Italy:

If you want to be "raw," take the train to Salerno and then take a ferry to Amalfi and Positano. It's cheap and keeps you off the roads. If you really want to be taken care of, just hire a tour company to take you all over the Naples and Amalfi area by coach. Do not take a car here. Ever. Don't believe the reviews you read on tripadvisor.com about how wonderful it is to drive this beautiful coastline and that parking at Pompeii and Ercolano is no problem. They're all dilusional and/or stupid.

It's really too bad that such a beautiful place has to be wasted on quite possibly the most ignorant group of people I've ever come across. I know I'm being negative, but this experience was truly not worth my life or the life of my husband, bless his heart for being willing to take me there. All I know is, you are all lucky not be planning a trip to my funeral next week.

On that note, I will say, next time you hear from me, we'll hopefully be back in Seattle. I swear, if we made it through the last few days alive, we can certainly make it back to Seattle safely. Here's hoping.

Monday, April 5, 2010

Day 8 and 9: Pascua and Alberobello

Easter Day:

Walked along a gorgeous beach to rival those in the Carribbean:




Had an amazing dinner at a restaurant by the sea (check out the anitpasti):


Who knew you could tie mozzarella in a knot?


Fabio and Anna sang their souls out during kareoke. Fabio was singing a song (in Italian) about a boy who goes to America and pretends to be an American, playing baseball, sipping soda, etc, etc. He was translating it to me and we were laughing at that silly boy, and then they announce that this song was requested by Anna and it was about Fabio! HAHAHA! They then insisted he sing it, which he did, with gusto!





Fabio had a visit with some of his friends from the "good ol' days."


Moving on to today. About 45 minutes from Taranto is a charming town called Alberobello. The entire town and surrounding countryside is dotted with these amazing dwellings called trulli. They are white-washed stone domed roof homes that keep cool during the scorching hot summers. They are so charming, and despite the whole of Southern Italy visiting Alberobello today (today is a holiday), it was a great experience. I've been there twice before, both times it was very quiet and deserted, which I think I prefer. I felt like I was at Disneyland on Christmas day with all the people that were there!



In other news, I know how to make gnocchi now! Anna taught me when we got home from Alberobello. Now I just can't wait to eat it!




Tomorrow we'll be in Pompei and Ercolano, then on to the Amalfi Coast! It's supposed to be 70 degrees and sunny. Here's hoping! Ciao!

Saturday, April 3, 2010

Day 5, 6 & 7: Taranto

We made it with our luggage...in case you were wondering. It was great fun sitting straight up, trying to sleep (I slept maybe 1 hour), next to strangers, on a freezing cold train. Glad that portion of the trip is over.

Thursday night marks the beginning of the Easter rites and festivities. The streets are hopping, the shops are open, the churches are open and there is an excitement in the air. After getting cleaned up, taking a 4 hour nap and visiting my best friend in Taranto, Ernesto (the guy with the panzarotti), Fabio and I took a stroll downtown.







I thought this was so funny, even if a little sacreligous, because it looks like the KKK are praying. I'm sorry. But every time I see these guys, I think of the KKK.


On Friday we visited the cemetary to see Fabio's grandparents' graves. Fabio warned me, it's like a city of the dead. He was right. Check out the mausoleums. Nicer than some peoples' houses!







We saw where la mamma's parents are buried:


We went to the National Archeological Museum downtown on Friday afternoon. For those of you who may not know, Taranto was a Greek colony founded in 800 BC. It had a pretty prestigious history up until the Romans conquered it. It was famous for its coins and pottery and was capital over the Greek colonies. Recently, they have found ancient Greek graves in the city, loaded with lots of artifacts that were buried with the Greeks to carry into the afterworld. I had a great time snapping more photos for my 6th graders:

I loved looking at the accesories. I would wear this today:


The coins are so indicative of everyday life. The smaller in size, the less weight, which means the less value. Not the same concept we have today. To think that these coins were being circulated by everyday people thousands of years ago by the Greeks in Taranto is fascinating!


We went to the old town to try and find a watercolor shop open (no luck...it was the afternoon) and then caught the beginning of the Friday night rites:




We stopped by the bakery owned by Gianni's sister and got to watch them busy at work and smell the delicious baking focaccia:




Today (Saturday) we haven't done much. Fabio and his mom showed me the market, full of just about anything you can think of. Fish, cheese, all kinds of produce, clothing, meat (think lamb's head hanging from the ceiling), accesories, toys, etc.



We'll go out to dinner tonight with a childhood friend of Fabio's. Right now, he has another friend here visiting away. The big topic everyone wants to talk to us about is "Obama's healthcare." Everyone we talk to is shocked by the way the healthcare system in the U.S. is. "Healthcare is tied to employment?" "Healthcare is not available for everyone?" "What if I lose my job?" "Healthcare IS a right because without your health, there is no life." "Aren't people in America happy for this change?" It's refreshing to talk to people who see our system as messed up as it really is. It gets me really worked up, trying to explain to them how little this healthcare bill really changed and how upset so many people are about this change. It's amazing that this news has reached the most remote corners of the world. (Trust me, Southern Italy really is remote.)

Until next time...